Alpine Trilogy – final stretch…
The name of the Alpine Trilogy was assigned to three legendary routes, which at the moment of creation were the hardest big-wall test pieces in the world. In 1994 Thomas Huber, Stefan Glowacz and Beat Kammerlander made the first ascents of the routes that not only set new standards in the sport of climbing but seemed futuristic back then. The difficulties of End of Silence X+, (the Berchtesgaden Alps), Des Kaisers neue Kleider X+ (Wilder Kaiser) and Silbergeier X+ (Rätikon) may not be from the top of the scale, however, what confirms the actual difficulty and class of the routes is the fact that there’ve been only four climbers in the world who managed to send all of them (Beat Kammerlander, Harald Berger, Ondra Beneš and the only female athlete, Barbara Zangerl).
Lukasz Dudek and Jacek Matuszek completed the first one-third at the end of August 2013, when they managed to climb End of Silence (350 m) after experiencing failure on Des Kaisers neue Kleider (250 m). Nasty weather made the team struggle a lot with Des Kaisers and, eventually, the route surrendered a year after. Thus, the only one left is Silbergeier (200 m), located in Swiss Rätikon.
Every climber who succeeded in his Alpine Trilogy project needed three years to complete it. Although originally Lukasz and Jacek’s plan assumed sending all three lines in just one year, history shows that each of the routes takes its physical and mental toll. Nevertheless, the three-year trend makes it even more realistic for the dream to come true this summer. The final clip is getting closer and closer…
Brento Centro – 1 kilometer face with only one ascent…
Lukasz i Jacek do not even consider resting on their laurels. The next goal in their climbing schedule is to make the second ascent of the only one free-climbed route on Monte Brento, one of the most representative sites of Valle del Sarca, Italy. Brento Centro (8b, 1000 m), located on the east face, was first free climbed by David Lama and Jorg Verhoeven in 2010. The route consists of 30 pitches, 22 of them graded 7a or more. The last three pitches were graded 8a+, out of which the last one is very bouldery. The Austrian and Dutchman had struggled with the route for three years and the fact that no ascents followed may indicate the enormity of effort put by the team. Brento Centro seems to be an ambitious goal, the more so because of the chossy rock and the fact that after a certain point on the wall, there is no possibility of abseiling…
PanAroma – the icing on the cake
One of the three most difficult and most spectacular multipitch routes, discovered for the world by a German climbing visionary, Alexander Huber. First freed in 2007, Panaroma (8c, 500 m) climbs the biggest roof in the Alps and seems to be the dream of every alpinist. Its difficulty is defined not only by the physical capability factor but, above all, by the mental strength as the exposure and spaced protection do not make it any easier. The psychological aspect was also underlined by the authors of the most recent ascent (2014), Edu Marin and Francisco Marin. After some holds broke off during Edu’s ascent , the 8b+ pitch was upgraded to 8c/c+. Lukasz and Jacek’s potential success on the North Face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo would be the most delicious icing on the cake of the team’s climbing achievements.
The value of the project was instantly noticed by Polish subsidiary of SALEWA that decided to support the team by providing them with the best gear and outfits.
As Jacek Matuszek comments:
“For us, the Alpine Wall Tour project is a natural consequence of what we have already achieved in the Alps. It is a challenge we’ve been looking forward to accepting for many years. We’re happy that our ambitious plan has been appreciated by SALEWA and thanks to the brand support, we’ll be accompanied by high quality clothing and equipment, which is definitely one of the determinants of the eventual success.”
The team is going to complete their project gradually by taking several trips in the period from the end of May to the end of September 2015 and they have already set off on the first of them. Team’s actions can be followed online on their official fanpage, project website, salewa.pl and via the official press releases by SALEWA Poland.
The first Polish climber to send a 9a route and the author of the most difficult test piece in Poland (Made in Poland, 9a) as well as several boulders up to 8B+. The former member of the National Team with thirteen 9a routes on his list of ascents. One of the world’s best sport climbers.
Poland’s Vice Champion in bouldering in 2007; a photographer and filmmaker. Among his best ascents there are famous routes such as Pata Negra 8c, Geminis 8b+ or Philipe Cuisinere 8b+ (Rodellar). The former competitor representing Poland on the international scene.