Is 9a only for professional climbers? If you think yes, you probably don’t know CAMP athlete Ander Lasagabaster that thanks to his passion and talent – and despite his full time work – is able to get amazing projects. Ander is born in Mondragón, Spain, in 1980: he started to climb when he was 13 and today his standard is 9a redpoint and 8b on-sight. He is an example for everybody, that reveals himself in this 360-degree interview.
How do you manage to combine your full time work with high level climbing? How do you find the time for training?
I have a shift work that leaves me enough time for training and climbing. In winter I climb mainly in gym while in summer I try to climb as much as possible on rock. I’m very stubborn and motivated in all activities I love… and I love climbing! So I find in any way the time for training.
Do you envy professional climbers that have “only” to climb? Do you dream to be a full time climber?
I envy them, of course. I think that everybody would like to live doing every day his favorite activity. But there are very few climbers that live by climbing: they are the best and I’m not strong enough to be a professional climber. Yes, I’m happy for my results and life but it’s clear that for me climbing is “only” an hobby.
Could you describe a your typical day?
I work until 14 o’clock. In winter I train two-three hours a day, four days a week, and during the weekends I climb on rock, if weather is good. During the summer I climb two days and I rest one day, I climb two days and I rest one day… always thus!
What are your favorite crags and the routes that made you really proud and happy?
Despite they are very different from each other, my home favorite crags are Araotz, Baltzola, Ilarduia and Etxauri. I like very much also Zeus, Rodellar and Rocklands and I would like to visit Kalymnos and Red River Gorge. But I don’t know when I’ll can go there! About routes, I remember especially Xarma, that was my first 8a, and Il domani, that was my first 9a: I dedicated this route to a very special person.
Do you have some models, some climbing legends that inspired you?
At the beginning my model was Wolfgang Güllich. Now there are many persons that inspire and support me: my climbing mates. They are always close to me, both in happy and in difficult moments.
What does climbing mean for you? How did you discover it? Is climbing only a sport or more?
I think climbing is more than a sport: it is something that becomes a life style changing your routine, holidays, relationships, friends… I started to climb when I was 13 together with my friends… a great adventure! It happened a lot of time ago…
On-sight or redpoint: what’s your favorite style?
I prefer to climb on-sight. But I climb mainly in the same places, so I have difficult to find new routes to try in this style. So I’m forced to redpoint.
What are your projects? What routes do you want to climb?
I have a pair of projects close to 9a that I would like to get this year. I would like also to travel and to visit new places as those mentioned before.
Considering your level, do you think to try hard multipitch routes like Silbergeier?
No, for now. But for the future I don’t exclude this possibility.
Why do you like CAMP products? And what are those that you prefer?
I like their perfect blend of lightness, comfort and durability. For now, I like especially the Energy harness and the Matik belay-descender device.
Visit the facebook profile of Ander: https://www.facebook.com/ander.lasagabaster
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